“现在能踏踏实实静下心来学蜀锦织造技艺的人不多了，这门技艺传承的现状让人担忧！”在成都古蜀蜀锦研究所，67岁的胡光俊感叹道。胡光俊是非遗蜀锦织造技艺省级代表性传承人，头发花白的他依然精神矍铄，不过，在谈到蜀锦织造技艺传承时，他的声音有些低沉。

“Now, people do not want to learn weaving skills, and it worries me a lot on how to keep the art heritage,” said 67-year-old Hu Guangjun at the Shu Brocade Research Institute in Chengdu.

Hu Guangjun is one of the best-known Shu Brocade artists in Chengdu and one of the city’s accredited inheritors of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Even with graying hair, he is full of energy, but when talking about brocade weaving art heritage, his voice is solemn.

蜀锦是我国重要的文化遗产和著名的传统工艺，与云锦、壮锦、宋锦并称为中国四大名锦，并长期占有“母锦”地位。蜀锦历经数千载而不衰，在于它厚重的文化艺术内涵和独特的工艺技艺。同时，蜀锦是成都的标志性技艺，成都以盛产锦而获得“锦城”、“锦官城”的美名，在“丝绸之路”中作为文化交流及贸易的载体见证了历史的发展，具有独特的文化价值。

The Shu Brocade is an important national-level ICH item, and is the oldest among the four famous brocades in China, namely the Yun Brocade, Zhuang Brocade, Song Brocade and Shu Brocade. Even after a thousand years, the Sichuan Brocade’s status remains the same because of its rich culture, artistic connotation, and unique craftsmanship. The Shu Brocade is also a symbol of Chengdu art, which has resulted in the titles Chengdu was given“Jincheng” (Brocade City) and “Jinguan City” (Brocade Government City). Chengdu was a carrier of cultural exchanges and trade in the “Silk Road”, and it has witnessed the development of history and has a unique cultural value.

日前，我们探访了位于成都双流区九江镇双九路2段86号的成都古蜀蜀锦研究所，这家集保护、传承、研究、生产蜀锦为一体的综合性单位聚集了一批包括原成都蜀锦厂的专家和艺人，还有一些技术工人。研究所最初成立于2008年4月，于2016年7月改制为股份制企业。胡光俊正是这里的副所长兼技术总监和工程师。

On September 12, we visited the Shu Brocade Research Institute at Jiujiang Town in Shuangliu District. The workers at this institute include the Chengdu Brocade Factory experts and artists, and a number of technical workers. The Ancient Shu Brocade Institute was first open in April 2008. Hu Guangjun is the deputy director, technical director and engineer at the institute.

进入研究所大门，一架花楼织机映入眼帘。胡先生告诉我们，这架花楼织机现在他们用得并不多了，为了提高蜀锦的产量，节约人力，他们升级了设备，采用有梭机械织机来完成蜀锦的最后织造，但是，蜀锦的核心技艺没有变。

Entering the institute, you can see the Hua Lou draw-loom. Hu told us they did not use this draw-loom very often because it only runs on manpower, so they had adopted new methods to lower manpower in order to increase Shu Brocade production. They used this new machine to finish the final part of a Shu Brocade weave. Even with the use of more advanced technology, the history of making the Shu Brocade was not tarnished because a majority of the brocade was made with the Hua Lou draw-loom.

难道蜀锦不是全手工的吗？当我们感到困惑时，胡先生耐心地告诉我们，蜀锦生产的传统工艺过程，大致可以分为纹制工艺和织造工艺两大部分。与花楼织机融合在一起的蜀锦织造技艺，从纹样设计、挑花结本到挽花工、织工合作生产，一直秉承古老的传统，其后替代传统织锦的有梭机械织机，技艺原理与之相同。现代蜀锦采用了现代技术织造，保持了蜀锦色块饱满、立体感强的特点，并较大程度地提高了产品的产量，缩短了产品的生产时间。

其实蜀锦有着不为人知的繁琐工艺。据胡老师介绍，蜀锦织造工艺繁杂，共有十多个工种，五六十道工序，是团队合作的结晶。胡老师说道：“一个人是无法完成一个蜀锦产品的，从小样设计到上机织造，一般需要七、八个人，耗时更是少至数月，多至数年。”

Hu explained that the traditional process of brocade production can be roughly divided into two parts: card punching and weaving. The Hua Lou draw-loom and the Shu Brocade weave technique are combined from pattern design to the cross stitch. The corporate production of the Shu Brocade has been adhering to the old tradition, even after the machine is updated. Actually, the Shu Brocade has many unknown crafts. According to Hu, the brocade weaving process is complicated; there are a total of more than 10 jobs and 5-60 processes; this means that production requires a lot of teamwork. Hu said: “One person is unable to complete Shu Brocade products. From design to sample weaving, itusually takes years for seven or eight people to finish it.”

所内“镇馆之宝”，是一幅长达13米的《清明上河图》，作品中人物、车船、园林有动有静，精美绝伦，在2011年成都国际非物质文化遗产展上展出时曾引起极大轰动。胡光俊一边欣赏着这幅作品一边介绍说：“这幅作品从设计到上机织造总耗时3年零8个月，由10多名工程技术人员共同合作完成，其中包括两名非遗蜀锦织造技艺项目国家级传承人。即使是现在上机批量织造，也需3个月才能完成一幅。”胡先生透露，四川省博物馆都已收藏该作品。

The most treasured brocade of the Shu Brocade Institute is a 13-meters-long work named Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival. The brocades in the works are boats, carriages, and landscapes. They show movement and stillness, and they are very realistic and exquisite. In 2011, its exhibition made a splash at the Chengdu International Exhibition of ICH. While admiring the painting, Hu said: “The painting from design to weaving takes a total of 3 years and 8 months. It is made by more than 10 engineers and technical personnel, including two weaving specialists of the Sichuan Brocade. Even now with the use of the new machine, it takes 3 months to complete one.” Sichuan Provincial Museum has collected this work.

研究所目前主要生产的蜀锦产品大多为旅游纪念品、礼品、工艺美术品、服饰面料等。“为了使古蜀锦走进千家万户，我们将进一步深度开发，如床上用品、室内饰品以及各类小产品。同时。我们还可以专门为客户定制蜀锦产品。”胡光俊说道。

The institute is currently the main production of Shu Brocade. Products are mostly tourist souvenirs, gifts, crafts, clothing and other fabrics. “In order to spread the Ancient Shu Brocade into millions of households, we will further the depth of development, such as bedding, interior decoration and all kinds of small products. We can also specially customize Shu Brocade products,” He said.

平日里，胡老师会接待来自各地对蜀锦感兴趣的人士，耐心为他们讲解蜀锦技艺的辉煌历史与现状。

On weekdays, teacher Hu is visited by many people all around the world who are interested in the Shu Brocade. He informs these people of the Shu Brocade’s glorious history and its current status.

“岁数大了，精力也没有年轻的时候好了，希望在有生之年将这门手艺传下去，可现实却让人担忧。”胡光俊透露，目前研究所里除了他和几位老员工，整个所里只有不超过20人，他本来这个年龄早应该退休享受晚年生活了，却因为找不到接班人而一直坚守在蜀锦技艺的传承岗位上，“为了这门技艺的传承，我们在社会各大招聘网站都发过招工简章，包吃包住还有实习补贴（约1800元），征集过学徒，不过很多人都是三分钟热度，而且有很多年轻人不愿意来，怕苦怕累，认为手艺人没有什么出息。”

“现在会这门技术的人越来越少，加上学习蜀锦耗时极长，五六年才能学会基本操作，而且略显枯燥，从而造成了目前这一技艺面临失传的尴尬。”胡光俊希望通过GoChengdu网站呼吁：“为了让这一祖先留下来的珍贵艺术再现荣光，只要有人想学，我绝对会毫无保留地传授这门手艺。” 这种坚持，既是对蜀锦技艺的一份坚守，更是对文化的一种担当。用胡光俊的话来说，这是一种情结。

“I am getting older, so I do not have the energy as I did when I was younger. I hope that I am able to pass this technology down before I die, but the reality of this happening is worrying,”

“In order to keep producing this precious, ancient craft, there must be people who want to learn. I will absolutely teach anyone who is interested.” Hu wants to keep the Shu Brocade craft, and especially the brocade culture itself, alive. To Hu Guangjun, the brocade culture is very special to him and he does not want it to die out.

小贴士

蜀锦与其它织锦（尤其是数码织锦）的区别：

一、肉眼观看

1、蜀锦产品绸面上有平纹、斜纹、缎纹及其这三种组织的变化组织，其它织锦只有平纹或斜纹组织；

2、蜀锦产品绸面颜色越多，块面效果越清晰层次越分明，其它织锦绸面颜色越多越模糊，远看尚可，近看就象是印上去一样；

3、蜀锦采用重经、重纬、重组织的传统生产技艺，产品在自然光线下无论站在什么方位观看都会反射出不同的色彩，其它织锦绸面不会或很少反射出色彩。

二、手感区别：

1、蜀锦产品绸面上有花样的地方有凹凸感，无花样的地方很柔和，其它织锦无论有花无花手感都较平且粗糙。所以购买时一定要去辨别，以避免买到其它织锦产品。

2、由于蜀锦产品是双经多重纬丝生产的产品，手感厚重，其它织锦是单经单纬织造，手感较薄。